When I visited Chile in March, predictions for the year’s vintage were lukewarm. By the middle of the month, when the harvest is usually in full swing, producers in most regions hadn't started picking their grapes, except for the north, where the cycle was accelerated. While there, I visited various vineyards and tried a few grapes. They had a pristine, bright color—the kind you see just after veraison has finished when they look so good you’re tempted to guzzle them down until the acidity and lack of sugar curb your enthusiasm. In Maipo, Maule and along the Aconcagua coast, I saw remarkably slow ripening across the board. The culprit was clear: the El Niño phenomenon.
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